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Sanibel
and Captiva: Tropical islands for modern life
Florida's
Sanibel and Captiva islands offer an unbeatable combination:
A tropical island wilderness with the convenience of modern life.
Only here can you wander a deserted beach, have a gourmet lunch,
track down an alligator and see an award-winning play -- all
in the same day.
Sanibel and
Captiva lie off the coast of western Florida, near the city of
Ft. Myers. Tampa is 125 miles north; Key West 140 miles south.
With more than 16 miles of beaches, a laid-back attitude and
great natural beauty and character, the islands are a true 21st
century paradise.
As you would
expect, the weather is great. Winters are exceptional, with average
highs in the mid-70s. Summers are tropical -- wet and hot --
but balmy Gulf breezes keep things bearable. The sun shines nearly
every day, all year round.
As barrier
islands, Sanibel and Captiva have open water and sandy beaches
on one side; brackish estuaries and mangrove coastlines on the
other. Sanibel also has substantial mangrove jungles and unique
(for an island) freshwater wetlands.
Sanibel is
the larger island, 12 miles long and up to three miles wide --
the same size as Manhattan. Captiva, joined to Sanibel's west
end by a short bridge, is five miles long and never more than
a half-mile wide. The islands are connected to the mainland by
the three-mile Sanibel Causeway.
Originally
settled by Calusa Indians, Sanibel and Captiva caught the attention
of Spanish explorers in the early 1500s. Juan Ponce de Leon named
the larger island "Santa Isybella" in honor of Queen
Isabella, who funded the New World expeditions. Pirates held
female captives on the smaller island, which they came to call
Captiva.
American
settlers arrived in the 1800s. Farmers grew tomatoes, coconuts
and citrus fruit, while beachfront inns attracted wealthy visitors
from up north. Hurricanes eventually wiped out farming, but tourism
stuck. Early winter visitors included Teddy Roosevelt, Charles
and Anne Lindbergh and political cartoonist Jay N. "Ding"
Darling, who convinced the federal and state officials to preserve
much of the land.
The Sanibel
Causeway opened in 1963, and the islands were discovered by the
world. At first, rampant development threatened to turn the islands
into another Miami Beach -- plans were made for 90,000 residents.
Sanibel fought back by incorporating in 1974. The new government,
all island volunteers, accepted tourism as its future. But it
put a near halt to future growth, preserving the remaining undeveloped
areas.
Tranquil
beaches
If your ideal
vacation includes quiet beaches and warm waters, Sanibel and
Captiva are just what you're looking for. The beaches are wild
and natural, with more birds than people. The gently sloping
sea floor keeps the waves calm and, in some places, lets you
wade out hundreds of yards. The crystalline waters stay warm
year-round.
Shelling
has been the islands' main claim to fame for hundreds of years
-- ever since Ponce de Leon dubbed the area "la costa de
Caracoles," the seashell coast. Sanibel in particular is
a sheller's haven. Its east-west orientation puts it in the perfect
position, as circulating Gulf currents bring in shells from far
offshore. Best of all, the shallow sea floor rolls up many of
these treasures unbroken. The awkward, crouching posture of shell
seekers even has a name: the Sanibel Stoop.
Thousands
of shells wash up with every tide, representing over 160 species.
Live shelling is banned, but any visitor is likely to walk upon
an abandoned lightning whelk, jewel box or Florida fighting conch,
while more serious shunters (SHelling hUNTERS) find rare junonia
and golden olives. Beautiful shells can be found on any island
beach at any time of day. But you'll find the most at low tide
and after a storm. The best spot to look: on a sandbar just offshore
at low tide.
Wild encounters
Many visitors
to the islands aren't here for the beaches. They come for the
wildlife.
The J.N.
"Ding" Darling National Wildlife Refuge preserves 6,000
acres of mangrove jungles and virgin wetlands. It's home to dozens
of endangered or threatened species. Here tropical and migratory
birds roost in the trees, manatees graze in the bays, raccoons
amble along the shore, alligators patrol the ponds -- all within
easy view of people. You can explore the refuge by car, foot,
bicycle, kayak or guided tram. A paved road, a water trail and
five miles of hiking paths wind through the woodlands and waterways.
Elsewhere
on Sanibel, other trails lead you into freshwater habitats. Guided
hikes are available at the Sanibel-Captiva Conservation Foundation.
More island
fun
Sanibel is
a bicyclist's Utopia. Twenty-five miles of paved bike paths run
alongside every major road, and occasionally veer off through
wilderness areas.
Two unique
Sanibel museums are worth a stop. The Sanibel Historical Village
and Museum preserves island history with an assortment of buildings
from the early 20th century, each fully restored and furnished
with authentic artifacts. The Village is passionately maintained
by volunteers, who offer knowledgeable, often first-hand accounts
of Sanibel life in a bygone era.
The only
shell museum in the world, the Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum has
well organized displays of shells from around the globe, including
rare exotic specimens. Exhibits explain the cultural importance
of shells through the centuries, from their use in ancient religious
ceremonies to their inspiration for architects, painters and
sculptors.
And no visit
to the islands is complete without getting on the water. Various
island outfitters rent power boats, kayaks and Waverunners; parasailing
is available on Captiva. Several tour-boat operators offer group
trips, including dolphin cruises, natural history tours and sunset
voyages. Don't overlook fishing -- the islands have dozens of
charter captains, experts in finding tarpon, snook, redfish and
other rewarding catches.
Charming
communities
Sanibel is
packed with an enticing charm literally from end to end: from
the Victorian-era lighthouse at the eastern tip to the tiny village
of Santiva at the west. Life moves at a slower pace on this homespun
island. Shop owners open late and close early; the fastest roads
have speed limits of 35 mph; night life consists of gathering
at the beach to watch the sunset.
Respect for
nature outweighs commercial concerns -- native flora and fauna
are always just a few feet away, even in the largest shopping
areas. In fact, Sanibel's character derives in part from what
it doesn't have: stop lights, street lights, four-lane highways,
billboards, neon signs, fast-food restaurants or other similar
man-made intrusions. Many roads and parking lots are paved with
shells, not asphalt. Buildings can be no taller than the tallest
palm.
On Captiva
a recent development boom has bulldozed many small cottages for
trophy retreats, but a unique character stubbornly remains. You'll
find it in the shops and restaurants along Andy Rosse Lane, along
the docks at Jensen's Marina and at the picturesque Chapel by
the Sea. Captiva has no mailboxes; residents pick up their mail
at the tiny post office.
Neither Sanibel
nor Captiva has a focused downtown. Sanibel's spiritual center
is Bailey's General Store. At the western tip of Sanibel is the
village of Santiva (SANibel and capTIVA, get it?); it looks like
a 1960s vacation postcard. Captiva's heart is the Chapel by the
Sea, and it too has a separate village: the South Seas Resort.
Restaurants
on the islands include everything from weathered shacks to arty
gourmet cafes. The specialty is fresh seafood, especially grouper,
crab and shrimp. Locally-owned shops and galleries offer their
own brand of charm, with imaginative collections of clothing,
shells, art and souvenirs.
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